REVUE 81

找遍南北西东，终于发现一个过得去的 revue cal 81，
据说是GO跳槽出来的技师给收拾的。
revue sport 款一般不用红铜芯，但白芯别有风味。
此外，也破解了steveg和tony的误解：
revue 81不是偏心机芯，摆轮也没有比一般的30mm机芯摆轮大，
是钢芯，不是德国银的白铜机芯。
宝石、螺丝都有沉降；
夹板似乎倒角，但不明显，
螺丝和鹅颈都是发黑打磨，
夹板整体刮削处理，
60多岁的老芯现在方位差平均日快3秒，得益于它诞生的年代——实用手表的技术巅峰期。
壳严重打磨，但是师傅的侧面重修拉丝十分细腻，毫不夸张地说，不亚于劳的出厂状态。
拍不出来，勉强看吧。

这个鹅颈与zenith135的鹅颈应该是一个等级的。
无倒角，纯功能。
和这个红铜机芯鹅颈同级。

版路漂亮

微调漂亮

漂亮的机芯，看的心痒痒的，也想弄一个。

铜镀镍夹板吧?
旁边一个是什么机?7001?

兄这找表的技术果然了得。

总觉得钉摆的美胜过时下的光摆！

翻过来看看正面

机芯别有一番风味

很漂亮！

很好玩的机芯,电镀水平高。

OHSEAL 发表于 2014-3-12 08:24
铜镀镍夹板吧?
旁边一个是什么机?7001?

是镀镍夹板，不是钢的。
旁边的是zenith 40t。
诸位老大，哪个芯高级一些？

深海 发表于 2014-3-12 08:49
翻过来看看正面

正面惨不忍睹
翻得很粗
得找面，针，壳
后续工程大了去了。

蛮漂亮的

gfyk 发表于 2014-3-12 14:30
是镀镍夹板，不是钢的。
旁边的是zenith 40t。
诸位老大，哪个芯高级一些？

技术上讲81高级些

机械米 发表于 2014-3-12 17:49
技术上讲81高级些

高在鹅颈微调吗？还是中心上了宝石？
要讲精确度，过手的几个40t都是天文台，
要讲修饰水平，40t有倒角，夹板表面刮削比81要细腻（没拍出来）
请老大明示。多谢。

In case you think that the Zenith Cal. 135 is unique inDate: Jul 25, 2009,07:55 AM -  (view entire thread)

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its architecture by moving the center wheel off-center to accommodate a larger balance (as I did)...

shown below are a citizen chronometer circa 1962 and a Revue Cal. 81, date uncertain (not my pictures, obviously, they are from this wonderful site:

nakahiro . parfait.ne . jp    [DIRECT LINK EDITED FOR COMMERCIAL ADVERTISING - MTF]














This Revue in particular has a couple of other interesting features, note the method for securing the steel spring which damps the seconds-hand, as well as the lovely regulator:









   

Vintage: Reveling in the Less ObviousDate: Jun 21, 2011,15:15 PM -  (view entire thread)

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There are, of course, many pleasurable aspects of vintage watch collecting. Some are obvious, while others are more likely to reveal themselves only after years of experience. In the latter category, I find myself taking increasing pleasure in discovering and acquiring nice examples of particularly appealing models made by less well-known manufacturers. I say that not because such watches are usually obtainable for relatively modest sums – though that is a nice tangential advantage – but because in my view, virtually all brands in what collectors would characterize as the “mid-range” category produced at least one or two truly excellent models during the golden era of the 1950s and ‘60s.

What I mean by “truly excellent” is that the aesthetic design, coupled with the relative quality of the movement, set a high standard for what was possible within the context of the manufacturer’s market, and given cost constraints.

A few months ago I acquired a nice example of a watch that I believe illustrates the above. It is a Revue Sport from the early ‘50s, featuring a cal. 81 movement. Revue Thommen, as it is known today, is probably best known for its Cricket model, the world’s first acoustic alarm wristwatch. The company also manufactured high quality precision instruments for the aviation industry.

During the golden era, Revue developed a particularly nice and interesting movement in the cal. 81. This movement was used in a variety of their models, including the Centenaire. They were produced in both 17 and 19 jewel iterations, and a large majority were copper plated.

The movement is of a high quality, and incorporated a Glucydur balance and Nivarox hairspring. It was most notable, perhaps, for its eccentric regulation system, a system which, to paraphrase my watchmaker, is more complicated than necessary but works quite well. The cam used to adjust the regulator arm allows for very fine regulation, and, having just received a first-class service, the subject watch is running well within chronometer standards. In fact, the watchmaker who serviced it and made the display back seen below, Keaton Myrick, told me that the “delta” (i.e. the greatest difference in time lost or gained between all positions) was a remarkable three seconds.

As I tend to prefer silver colored movements, I was quite happy with this less common version of the cal. 81. The material used is called “German silver” by watchmakers. It is a nickel derivative, and includes some zinc. It is corrosion resistant (so no need for plating) and machines well. Many high-end wind instruments are made of German silver (e.g. flutes and saxophones), and in the watch world, Lange & Sohne still uses the (relatively expensive) alloy for its plates and bridges.

To my eye, this watch was well designed throughout. The case, dial, hands and crown are all straightforward and attractive. Given the quality and aesthetics of the movement, it was an easy decision to have a display back made. And last but not least, who can resist beautifully applied and patinated luminous material?

As a final note, I hope that this brief essay might inspire one or two collectors with limited funds to recognize that there are indeed treasures within their reach, as when it comes to vintage watch collecting, knowledge, perseverance and luck can, at times, render the size of one’s bankroll irrelevant.







  

steve说81是偏心的，
tony说81是德国银的，
都错了。