表铭 发表于 2015-4-2 11:40
请问各位老师81机芯19钻版本红金色的是天文台级别吗？

机芯细节有小区别。

主要看脸

请问各位老师81机芯19钻版本红金色的是天文台级别吗？

gfyk 发表于 2014-3-12 18:06
steve说81是偏心的，
tony说81是德国银的，
都错了。

根据英文说明是中心轮偏心，夹板德国银。

漂亮的81

。。。。。。。。。板路好看，，，，，，

chlogan 发表于 2015-3-16 00:52
挖一个坟。

这个白机的蜗牛和红机的其实不是一个级别的。

学习

gfyk 发表于 2014-3-12 06:31
这个鹅颈与zenith135的鹅颈应该是一个等级的。
无倒角，纯功能。
和这个红铜机芯鹅颈同级。

挖一个坟。

这个白机的蜗牛和红机的其实不是一个级别的。
红机那个是revue的天文台，白机只是普通版本的略微高端的款式，没有达到天文台标准。存世数量也多很多。

话说Steve那偏文章的那三只横向对比的表，都是日本藏家的。


81总体来说是一只很好的表！

gfyk 发表于 2014-3-12 18:00
高在鹅颈微调吗？还是中心上了宝石？
要讲精确度，过手的几个40t都是天文台，
要讲修饰水平，40t有倒角 ...

对呀，一个是中心轮宝石轴承
另一个最重要的就是微调了
最直观的就是这两点，细细比较要拆了

steve说81是偏心的，
tony说81是德国银的，
都错了。

Vintage: Reveling in the Less ObviousDate: Jun 21, 2011,15:15 PM -  (view entire thread)

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There are, of course, many pleasurable aspects of vintage watch collecting. Some are obvious, while others are more likely to reveal themselves only after years of experience. In the latter category, I find myself taking increasing pleasure in discovering and acquiring nice examples of particularly appealing models made by less well-known manufacturers. I say that not because such watches are usually obtainable for relatively modest sums – though that is a nice tangential advantage – but because in my view, virtually all brands in what collectors would characterize as the “mid-range” category produced at least one or two truly excellent models during the golden era of the 1950s and ‘60s.

What I mean by “truly excellent” is that the aesthetic design, coupled with the relative quality of the movement, set a high standard for what was possible within the context of the manufacturer’s market, and given cost constraints.

A few months ago I acquired a nice example of a watch that I believe illustrates the above. It is a Revue Sport from the early ‘50s, featuring a cal. 81 movement. Revue Thommen, as it is known today, is probably best known for its Cricket model, the world’s first acoustic alarm wristwatch. The company also manufactured high quality precision instruments for the aviation industry.

During the golden era, Revue developed a particularly nice and interesting movement in the cal. 81. This movement was used in a variety of their models, including the Centenaire. They were produced in both 17 and 19 jewel iterations, and a large majority were copper plated.

The movement is of a high quality, and incorporated a Glucydur balance and Nivarox hairspring. It was most notable, perhaps, for its eccentric regulation system, a system which, to paraphrase my watchmaker, is more complicated than necessary but works quite well. The cam used to adjust the regulator arm allows for very fine regulation, and, having just received a first-class service, the subject watch is running well within chronometer standards. In fact, the watchmaker who serviced it and made the display back seen below, Keaton Myrick, told me that the “delta” (i.e. the greatest difference in time lost or gained between all positions) was a remarkable three seconds.

As I tend to prefer silver colored movements, I was quite happy with this less common version of the cal. 81. The material used is called “German silver” by watchmakers. It is a nickel derivative, and includes some zinc. It is corrosion resistant (so no need for plating) and machines well. Many high-end wind instruments are made of German silver (e.g. flutes and saxophones), and in the watch world, Lange & Sohne still uses the (relatively expensive) alloy for its plates and bridges.

To my eye, this watch was well designed throughout. The case, dial, hands and crown are all straightforward and attractive. Given the quality and aesthetics of the movement, it was an easy decision to have a display back made. And last but not least, who can resist beautifully applied and patinated luminous material?

As a final note, I hope that this brief essay might inspire one or two collectors with limited funds to recognize that there are indeed treasures within their reach, as when it comes to vintage watch collecting, knowledge, perseverance and luck can, at times, render the size of one’s bankroll irrelevant.







  

In case you think that the Zenith Cal. 135 is unique inDate: Jul 25, 2009,07:55 AM -  (view entire thread)

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its architecture by moving the center wheel off-center to accommodate a larger balance (as I did)...

shown below are a citizen chronometer circa 1962 and a Revue Cal. 81, date uncertain (not my pictures, obviously, they are from this wonderful site:

nakahiro . parfait.ne . jp    [DIRECT LINK EDITED FOR COMMERCIAL ADVERTISING - MTF]














This Revue in particular has a couple of other interesting features, note the method for securing the steel spring which damps the seconds-hand, as well as the lovely regulator:









   

机械米 发表于 2014-3-12 17:49
技术上讲81高级些

高在鹅颈微调吗？还是中心上了宝石？
要讲精确度，过手的几个40t都是天文台，
要讲修饰水平，40t有倒角，夹板表面刮削比81要细腻（没拍出来）
请老大明示。多谢。

gfyk 发表于 2014-3-12 14:30
是镀镍夹板，不是钢的。
旁边的是zenith 40t。
诸位老大，哪个芯高级一些？

技术上讲81高级些

蛮漂亮的

深海 发表于 2014-3-12 08:49
翻过来看看正面

正面惨不忍睹
翻得很粗
得找面，针，壳
后续工程大了去了。

很好玩的机芯,电镀水平高。

很漂亮！

机芯别有一番风味