名表通

标题: 资料备份 [打印本页]
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 15:41
标题: 资料备份
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-11 23:14 编辑

“比比谁更厉害”对于钟表擒纵而言其实是个很有争议性（或者说刁钻）的议题。船钟上用的那种冲击式擒纵在实验室那种环境（或者同等类型的环境，譬如带有水平仪的船上）能够发挥出近乎完美的水平，但是却非常不适合怀表。（因为怀表面对的环境对于那种冲击式擒纵还是太复杂了，尽管比腕表好得多）

所谓的瑞士锚式擒纵（或者马式擒纵）之所以能够成为今天（包括19世纪后期在内的近代）能够成为主流，只是因为它在实验室环境和实际使用环境中的平均性能是最佳的（当然，这种擒纵也经历了整整几个世纪的改良），而且便于批量生产和调校。更何况这种擒纵即便受到了一定程度的损伤和劳损也能够照常运作（更准确地说，具备了超负荷运行的能力），所以，马式擒纵倍受青睐。

来自德国的制表大师戈斯曼（M. Grossmann）曾经写过一本名为《有关马式擒纵的理论与实用论文》，这份文章应该能在专门的图书馆甚至公共资源处获得（譬如说免费下载），这本书专门记载了马式擒纵的应用和技术改良方案。

自马式擒纵诞生以来，来自英国和瑞士的大师们马不停蹄地进行改良此擒纵的实验，实际上就连丹尼斯也做过类似的实验，这使马式擒纵在技术进步上更臻于化境。

值得一提的是，现在的瑞士马式擒纵最起码具备以下特点：
1. 直线式布局（就擒纵叉而言）
2. 擒纵轮能量的释放和传递分开进行，齿形也改良了（自然擒纵和某些冲击式擒纵是同步进行的）
3. 擒纵叉叉石清晰可见（19世纪至20世纪初德系马式擒纵叉的叉石是隐蔽式的）
4. 双圆底盘（防止卡壳）

直线式布局提供了校正操作时最好的视野（对校表师而言），而擒纵轮能量传递和释放过程的分开则给予了擒纵本身良好的抗造性（起码能够承受一定程度的干扰而不卡壳，英式擒纵多半带有这个问题），改良后的齿形更是帮助回避了擒纵受外力干扰的问题，英式擒纵轮的那种棘轮或者点式齿形对外力干扰非常敏感。另外，现有的马式擒纵轮所用的那种齿形貌似源自宝玑的设计。


另外，叉石可见度涉及到它们是否可以被再次调整的问题，在调整擒纵叉的时候校表师会通过给叉尖表面加热的方法使叉石变松从而使调校工作变得更容易。 在调校英国表的时候就难多了，叉石必须被完全从擒纵叉移除。

双圆盘这种设计是瑞士钟表技术发展中最有实用性的设计之一，好处在于缩小擒纵活动的收放范围和半径，节省能量；不好的地方在于，擒纵的末端负担加大，而且降低整个系统的工作效率。因此，只装备单圆盘的机心往往在竞赛中夺魁（因为在静态环境中单圆盘结构更有优势）。单圆盘的优势和劣势跟双圆盘恰好相反，安全性和可靠性上远没有双圆盘好，但是系统效率高。美国铁路表普遍装备双圆盘是因为厂家相信这种结构更适合复杂多变的铁路环境。

这段历史曲折，复杂得超出很多人的想象，幸好相当一部分资料记载得相当翔实。

接下来再说说别的：
戈斯曼（Grossmann）的理论非常优秀而且易懂，更何况他的著作可获得性很高，但是对于“瑞士马式擒纵”这一名词的诞生年份可能存在缪误（原作说是1869年，实际上应该是1890年代）。 Kemp的“英式芝麻链马式擒纵表”（The English Fusse Lever Watch） 一书中也有很多有关马式擒纵进化史的内容而且在年份上更精确，这本书很珍贵，但值得去找。

除了瑞士擒纵，最常见的擒纵无非就是丹尼斯的同轴擒纵，UN的双向擒纵（已经没有应用在新款上）和AP的罗宾擒纵（只用在本品牌的顶级表款上），这些另类的擒纵估计不会有太大的作为，毕竟它们的应用范围和时间不如马式擒纵，而且是否成功还需要历史证明（在机械钟表饰品化，奢侈化大行其道的今天，估计这些擒纵的用武之地也就是制造噱头和配合所谓文化宣传而已。）此外，这些擒纵大多数充其量只是马式擒纵的基础上演变而来的变种而已（双向擒纵除外）。

此外，筒式擒纵（Cylinder），美式复式擒纵和英式马式擒纵在19世纪结束后还苟活到了二战结束以后，但都是以小批量生产的形式延续自己的生命。值得一提的是，格拉苏堤风格的马式擒纵（叉石为嵌入式）直到今天还有品牌生产，只是非常少见；而马式擒纵的另一种变体——狄龙擒纵（DeLong Escapement）除了被应用在麦因塔的表款上，则被用于某些伊利诺斯和波尔表的款式中（详细款式型号不详），最后被应用在大批量生产的天美时（TIMEX）表款中。



作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 15:41
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 19:45 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 15:42
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 19:52 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 15:42
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 19:54 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:02
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:07 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:02
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:20 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:03
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:21 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:04
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:21 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:05
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:27 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:06
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:27 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:06
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:28 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:06
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:29 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:07
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:31 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:07
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:44 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:07
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:45 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:08
If he went through a classic apprenticeship program, he would have started at the age of 14 and served 7 years. That would make him a journeyman at the age of 21. Typically, for someone with his obvious talents, he would have been a master 5 or 6 years later. However, it seems he got involved in politics, so that may have deferred his education and development. I have never heard of any work he produced before coming to the U.S. nor have I heard who his master may have been.

It is possible that he was self taught and his work might support that view. It is highly idiosyncratic. This view is supported by Paul Chamberlain's account in It's About Time where Fasoldt is described as having the rank of Captain in the 19th Regiment of the Revolutionary Army. However, he was born in Dresden and his son's obituary states that he, Otto H. Fasoldt, was the 3rd generation of watchmakers in his family, which implies that Charles' father was also a watchmaker.

Fasoldt had a rather large operation in Albany, NY with 50 employees according to Chamberlain. He was engaged in many different technical enterprises in addition to watchmaking. His optics were likely more significant at the time with the ability to produce 12,000 lines/inch diffraction gratings.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:11
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:46 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:11
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:47 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:11
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 20:55 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:12
I have a Hamilton 950B which is very good and a vintage Vacheron and Constantin made for the railroad trade that are very good. I have not rate many of them because it is time consuming. My Gruen up down is also very good. I rate them by comparing them daily and calculating the variance. I am primarily concerned with constant rate rather than what it is.

English keyless fusee watches have a lot of the winding built into the case. I have a recased Kullberg that is a very respectable in rate. The trick there is that to run reliably in the pocket the crown has to disconnect unless it is being wound. most of this is under the dial but there are often buttons that have to operated to wind and set.

You can get superb timekeeping for well under $1000. Hamilton 992B's and 950b's are very very good. In the $5k and up range you are getting exotic and rare. All the high end Swiss stuff in good reapir is very good and if you get a watch with a Kew A certificate or a First Class bulletin. If I had $25K to spend I'd get a Patek or Vacheron competition watch and have it overhauled and regulated by them. TheEnglish stuff of that era is almost as good but the makers are now long gone, although the current Frodsham people seem to be well regarded so a Kew rate Frodsham is also a candidate.

Modern mechanical wrist watches are also very good.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:12
Discussing the Nardin Freak on this board crosses several boundaries but I believe the NAWCC has to better connect with fans of modern high end and not quite so high end wrist watches. I’ll try to keep my response within the interest area of the topic and the thread

I have been intrigued with the Freak in several of its variants, especially the exotic materials versions.. They have broken a lot of ground in the area of super materials and fabrication processes . Patek Philippe copying this kind of effort is a very high complement. I think it’s great that this is viable market niche but its not for me for several reasons

The first is cost. For what one of these costs I can buy several old watches I would rather own. My preference for the older watches is because they were made when people placed serious reliance on their performance. If you were running railroad, navigating a ship or running time sensitive business, you relied on your watch.
For what Freak level watch costs, I could buy several competition watches that in their day were the most accurate timepieces in existence.

The other reason for my preference is historic significance
Many very high grade old watches carry inscriptions that tie them to people who were very significant and left records of what they did.
I have learned a lot about people I have found very interesting after I obtained their watch. They are not the major celebrities but one was the man who arranged to bring the Statue of Liberty to the US. Another was the developer of the cable used for the trans-Atlantic telegraph, another gave insight into the personal life of a significant leader of the US women’s suffrage movement. Another watch led to learning about the way Insurance underwriters rewarded Captains who prevented major losses. This is the subject of an article to be in the November Watch and Clock Billetin.
I spend a lot of very enjoyable time at this and to hold or wear something that these people carried is source of deep enjoyment.

A problem for me if I obtained a fabulous super mint watch there is no real follow up. I may wear but it woudl be rarely. Preserving it requires that I lock it away. I don’t get a lot of enjoyment in that. I do enjoy tracking down significant people who owned and carefully used fine watches

I can get over dozen of these for what a watch like a Freak costs. I respect people who enjoy these but I’ll get about 90% of the enjoyment I’d get owning one by admiring it on some else’s wrist or in a shop display or an on line animation. I think it’s a marvelous thing and with unlimited funds I might be tempted.
That’s my view, but, as I began, all us watch enthusiasts need to play nicely together so I would enjoy learning what attracts you to this watch but this might be better placed in the wrist watch foru
Today’s super wristwatches are accessories, if they are worn at all. Its sad since I believe todays high end watches are at least as fine as the old ones and I like supporting this kind of work.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:12
I do not own a Freak, but I am pretty sure that those who do consider them daily wear watches, not something locked in a safe. This will not likely get a discussion here because the owners do not participate on our Message Board.

I think this is a matter of community. We do not seem to make this board a very welcoming place for the wealthy. I am sure we have some wealthy participants here, but I think less than the proportional numbers in society,

I also think that the wealthy of today who collect watches or admire them look at wristwatches rather than pocket watches so any who are here may be reading the wristwatch forum. Our WatchDig web site is intended to attract those with a primary interest in wristwatches such as the Freak.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-4 16:13
The most intergrated case is the Potter designed Charmilles in which the case is also the top plate. This was made by Potter as a "dollar watch". This is less true of the Waterbury Rotary watches but to quite as integrated. One thing abotu dolalr watches they are rarely if ever recased and if so not into standard cases.

It's not so much integrated but Vacheron made some watches in aluminum cases.

Also there are some Ekegren watches with lever or button setting from the back. I imagine that there is quite a biut of case integration on these but I have yet to handle one.

Kullberg made some watches that also required opening the back to set them but I am not so clear as to how they worked but they mst have some mechanism in the case.

One other example is the Movado Ermeto watches. These have a case that slides opens from two sides which slide apart to expose the face. This action also woinds the watch via a ratchet. Some of these are chronometer grade.

There are a few similar watches that wind by opening the back but some one else will have to come up with the makers.
作者: 混江龙    时间: 2012-11-4 17:32
好家伙，全英文，有些费劲。
作者: zzhzj0714    时间: 2012-11-4 21:44
分开我都认识，连起来一个单词都不认识
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-5 01:23
混江龙 发表于 2012-11-4 01:32
好家伙，全英文，有些费劲。

我准备把他们全翻译了
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-5 03:19
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 21:02 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-5 03:42
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2012-11-4 12:00 编辑

Fuck the world, screw the shit
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-5 04:00
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 21:05 编辑

完成
作者: haru    时间: 2012-11-5 09:04
需要中文，太需要了。
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-5 09:14
haru 发表于 2012-11-4 17:04
需要中文，太需要了。

我现在都把没有来得及翻译的材料都放到这里
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-6 05:44
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 21:07 编辑

完成
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-6 05:44
Why the obsession with escapement lubrication? So long as the train needs to be cleaned and lubricated, cleaning and lubricating the escapement is only a detail. Good timekeeping begins at the mainspring (I can't remember who said that, but it's as true as it ever was).

A marine chronometer's spring detent escapement was lubricant free but Gould recommends servicing every three years - a practice that was followed in the Royal Navy and I suspect the US Navy too.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-6 05:45
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-9-11 21:07 编辑

完成
作者: haru    时间: 2012-11-6 08:48
这么多翻译起来还是有点工作量的啊
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-6 10:01
haru 发表于 2012-11-5 16:48
这么多翻译起来还是有点工作量的啊

不然的话，怎么造福兄弟们？
作者: xhandy    时间: 2012-11-7 16:17
辛苦了！
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-8 09:25
xhandy 发表于 2012-11-7 00:17
辛苦了！

只是为了日后可以更好地进行交流
作者: tiaobaojjgg    时间: 2012-11-9 19:43
提示: 作者被禁止或删除 内容自动屏蔽
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-10 13:07
I have a high regard for American watches evidenced by the many that I own. The simple fact is that no American maker with the possible exception of the Edward Howard made a first class lever, one with a detachable safety finger. This is not essential to time keeping performance and for their purposes, the American industry did marvelously well. The Edward Howard also introduced the ancestor of the gyromax balance. Hamilton's uniformity and fit and if finish were wonderful and their super elinvar was as good as it gets .

As I wrote before, I doubt the lever on the Edward Howard was US made but its balance was invented here n the US and probably made here. My problem is that too many people like it too much so it costs a lot more than watches i would enjoy as much or more.

That all said no US maker ever won a Swiss or English time trial. Waltham did win at Philadelphia and Sydney but never won a formal "concours"

Great things happened in the US but for my money the best watches were made in England, France, Switzerland and Germany. To state the US watches did not meet those standards is not to say they are bad.

It's an opinion. It's also how I spend my money. I think a clean Waltham 72 American grade or an Elgin 21 j Convertable or an Edward Howard is a very fine item I would like to own. My problem is that for that money I could get two or three Louis Audemars or a an even less known maker watch that is better with no questions about whether it has been switched or re-cased or otherwise done over.

I like a watch I can something with after I get it. For a very fine watch by a maker I don't know I can look into their history. i usually find they competed in time trials.
Sometimes I get one with an interesting owner or set o owners, After you get that mint in the box one of three mistakes made by the factory what do you do with it?

I have had many a watch take me on an interesting journey. A very few of these were US made but the really interesting dead people I have met through their watches liked the same high grade foreigb watches I seek.

I am delighted that others buy other things.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-10 13:07
daily wear

    My most used daily watch is an IWC Ingenieur 3521. Its a much more interesting watch than the current models but I did buy it new.


    I like it because i combines super antimagnetic, inner case and a shock proofing mounting on a failry small watch. Any fool can make one of these as a huge watch. It also has a platinum rotor. It uses the same movement as the AP Royal Oak,a and a Patek sort watch and all three are successful Gerald gent designs. I think the IWC is the best of them and the most rugged.

    I bought my IWC through Silvermagic in 2000. The company has been sold but whenI dealt withthem they ghad excellent pricing and were reliable and highly regarded. YOU wil lahve to check them out they may be good source for your Freak.

    I also wear an Waldan 7751 but it now needs service so it's out of action. I am wearing my RGM 801 a modern American made wrist watch. Mine is free sprung, i think th only one of these they made.

    When travel over seas I wear my Tissot titanium multifunction quarts. Its the same movement as as the Breitling Aerospace but it started as a Tissot. I also carry an American pocekt watch usally a Hamilton 992b ir 950b. I like to carry something good but replaceable. I love showing peopel I meet th egret things American makers did even if I don;t thing they were the best.

    The Tissot Titanium movement is very nicely thought out. I bought it on eBay but it had stem problems which i fixed. I was essentially dumped as an unrepairable return. That happens a lot on eBay but if yu know how or have a good repairer you can do well.

    Hope this is useful


    Jon

作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-12 08:04
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echappement_naturel
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-12 08:04
http://www.thepurists.net/patron ... il05/pp_technew.htm
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-12 08:04
http://www.tp178.com/mh/freak_works/freak_works.html
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-12 08:07
http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.p ... Assmann-Gruen/page3
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-12 08:07
http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.p ... European-watchmaker
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-23 15:31
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-10 12:58 编辑

occupied
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-28 14:07
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29934/29934-h/29934-h.htm
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-11-28 14:07
http://www.sil.si.edu/imagegalax ... e.cfm?id_image=7972
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-7 13:47
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-10 12:58 编辑

occupied
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-18 12:42
Elgin C.H.Hulburd



作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-18 12:44
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-10 12:55 编辑

Railroad Grade Howard Series 11It was pocket watches, specifically a Columbus Watch Company pocket watch, that got me interested in watch collecting. The watch was made 130 years ago within walking distance of my home. I never realized Columbus had a watch company and started researching it.

But it was Ray MacDonald that got me interested in this Howard watch. He called it the Patek Phillippe of American pocket watches. I was amazed. It does show incredible workmanship. And, though I could never afford a Patek, I could afford this Howard!








(Seller's pics... more later!)


The driving force behind this watch was the railroad industry. After the Civil War, American railroads exploded. They replaced rivers as the main mode of transportation and became an everyday part of life. They forced the 1883 standardization of time zones (in the US) to simplify scheduling.

Most rail lines were single track. Two way operations were done by scheduling one train to switch off the mainline onto a siding while another train passed. This required accurate timekeeping. But in 1891 a four minute error in an Engineer’s watch caused a wreck that resulted in the death of nine people in Ohio.

To address the problem the railroad hired W.C. Ball, a Cleveland jeweler. On his recommendation they adopted a minimum standard that all watches used by Engineers, Conductors, and other trainmen needed to meet. Ball went on to codify the 1893 General Railroad Timepiece Standards and the Railroad Watch came into being.

A Railroad Standard Watch has two basic objectives: Accuracy and Usability. In general most standards encompassed the following:




A further refinement was the Montgomery Dial developed by Henry S. Montgomery for the Santa Fe Railway System. It requires each minute be numbered, every 5 minutes to be in red, and the 6 hour to be marked even if it is in the seconds subdial.

The resultant Railroad Grade watch is an accurate, very readable and very usable time keeper which the employee was expected to buy with their own money. (The railroads conducted regular inspections to assure all watches being used met Railroad Standards.)

The specific example I have is a Howard Series 11, a 21 jeweled watch built in Boston MA specifically as a Railroad Standard watch. Indeed the movement is labeled as a Railroad Chronometer. It has a simple Keystone case which lacks any ornamentation and is only 10KT RGP. It is a working man’s watch which an Engineer or Conductor had to pay $100 to buy in 1913, the approximate manufacture date. In 1913 that was more than a month’s wages for its buyer. (The low cost case in this example kept the price down but this was still one of Howards’ more expensive watches. A 14KT solid gold case on this movement only doubled the price. The base movement was expensive.) The watches were often bought on credit. So nothing fancy, just the basics – except for the movement.

The movement is a thing of beauty and a joy forever… Built to last… Built to be accurate. This Howard times today as follows:

===========Rate===== Amplitude====Beat Error
Crown Up:==== +7======= 187========= 0.0
Crown Right:== -23======= 161========= 0.2
Crown Left:=== +20======= 187=========0.0
Dial Up:====== +6======= 150========= 0.2
Dial Down:==== +7======= 140========= 0.1

After 95 years it is still pretty healthy but it is not meeting Railroad Specifications and needs adjusting… I’ll see if my watchmaker wants to take on that task. He might just for the fun of working on a Howard. Then again, I might not be able to afford it (see the thread on adjusting!).

作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-18 12:47
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-10 12:56 编辑

Hamilton 922MP

922MP:






作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-18 12:51
Edward Howard:






作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-18 12:52
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-10 12:54 编辑





作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2012-12-18 12:56
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-1-10 12:49 编辑


F.P.Journe First piece
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-6 13:17
http://revo-online.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2040
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-6 13:18

罗宾擒纵原版
作者: nbyzw    时间: 2013-1-8 19:40
插队，窃藏了，！
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-9 14:01
nbyzw 发表于 2013-1-8 03:40
插队，窃藏了，！

有什么所谓？反正这帖子就是用来服务大众的
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:44
http://www.awco.org/mwco/
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:44
http://www.awco.org/mwco/Presentation/McIntyrePresentation.htm
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:44
http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.p ... ept-the-Swiss-lever
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:54
http://awco.org/AWCo/interesting.htm
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:54
http://awco.org/Collections.htm
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:54
http://www.abellwatchmakers.com/
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-12 02:54
http://www.abellwatchmakers.com/Howard.htm
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-17 16:07
xhandy 发表于 2012-11-7 00:17
辛苦了！

翁版，这款机心的来头能给我说说么？



作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-19 01:48
My collection has the theme of portable precsion time keeping. I don't buy watches made before they were good time keepers and not much after quartz came alson although I have a few precision quartz watches.

In American Watches this includes railroads becuase of the the contribution these made to precision time keeping. It includes chronometers, US and English as well as torpedo boat watches by US, Swiss and English and Russuan makers.


I also like a good looking watch. To me signs of honorable service are a plus. I have an 18 size Bunn Special with colored gouges in its dial. They were probably stops on the train the original owner ran.

An occasional hairline ion the dial is not an issue but botchwork on the movement is a disqualifier. I make my buy decision based on the movement so what I want from a case is security.

On my high end Swiss and English pieces, I almost always get them with original cases which is usually easy to do since the serial number often match and the sizes generally were non standard. I don't pay a premium for originality and I'll consider an outstanding movement in a bad case but it has to be a really great movement.


I also collect high grade pendant watches, again those with wonderful movements. I stay away from ornate cases but most are very nicely decorated 18k gold. Usually, a really killer case has a mediocre movement. Not a lot of gold inthese which kept a lot from beign melted and I can get a lot of watch and not tie up my funds in metal.

I like American Swiss and English in this category and love my "ladies" even if they are not quite so precision, although I have many that were made to astounding precision.

I will sometimes take a flyer on something that catches my eye and do research.

I also track down owners and provenance, so personalizations and other engraving add to the fun.

Generally, very fine watches belonged to interesting people and I have "met" a lot of interesting dead people that way.

A lot of people are bored by the technology but get interested in the history. I like watches that lead me on a path to discovery.
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2013-1-21 06:45
本帖最后由 nomorewatch 于 2013-3-24 20:09 编辑

占位
作者: nomorewatch    时间: 2014-5-15 08:22
http://www.blackbough.co.uk/hell ... es/tag/ultra-chron/
http://ambwatches.com/2013/08/13 ... -chron-caliber-431/
http://watchguy.co.uk/service-longines-ultra-chron-calibre-431/
http://watchguy.co.uk/service-longines-ultra-chron-calibre-431-2/



欢迎光临 名表通 (https://watchlead.com/wbbs/) Powered by Discuz! X3.2