FLEX 发表于 2013-11-5 12:52:32

看看号称钟里劳斯莱斯的“昂文德帝”的手表

Dear All:
I thought I add a bit the discussion on Habring2 's Jumping Seconds complication. I mentioned that it can be easily added to different movements, and in fact that has been done already:

The famed clock manufacturer Erwin Sattler from Munich decided the celebrate the manufacture's 50th anniversary with a wristwatch that is true to a classical regulator (seconds hand at 12, hour hand at 6 o'clock) and furthermore features a dead-seconds mechanism.

They turned to Maria Kristina and Richard Habring and asked whether they would be able to offer help. Indeed, having just finalised their own in-house jumping seconds mechanism, this was quickly accepted. The result is the Erwin Sattler Regulateur Classica Secunda:

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_1.jpg


The watch comes in a 44mm case and a pure silver dial.

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_2.jpg


True to Sattlers pendulum clock Classica Secunda the dial is held with 4 screws. Time is indicated with gorgeous heat-blued hands:

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_3.jpg


The case is massive with distinct lines. A polished case band is accentuated with matte bezel and case back:

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_4.jpg


Crown with the Sattler logo:

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_5.jpg


http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_6.jpg


The movement is based upon an ETA 7750, but the chronograph function had to make way for the jumping seconds complication as well as for the hour hand.

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_7.jpg


http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_8.jpg


The benefit for the observer is that the jumping seconds mechanism is better visible, i.e. the jumping seconds spring (almost totally hidden in the Habring2 watches) can clearly be identified. Note the spring on the left:

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_9.jpg


The rotor has been decorated with the company's initials and the logo by Benzinger:

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_10.jpg


Its a different animal on the wrist than a Habring2 watch, it has a certain 'olde worlde' charm to it (and does not wear very large!):

http://www.ornatus-mundi.ch/images/Watches/Watchmakers/Habring/Sattler_Regulator_wrist.jpg


All of the above said, thanks to the modular character of Habring2 's Jumping Seconds complication Sattle now also can offer a smaller, 38mm version based upon the Habring2 A09MS handwound movement. Its called the Regulateur Classica Secunda Medium.

This is modularity used with a great effect!

Thanks for viewing,
Magnus

路上的光 发表于 2013-11-5 12:55:43

漂亮的规范指针!{:2_37:}

FLEX 发表于 2013-11-5 12:57:38

路子很ETA,欧洲售价8800欧元,上海119700人民币。

urin1010 发表于 2013-11-5 13:02:32

本帖最后由 urin1010 于 2013-11-5 13:07 编辑

Habring2 A09MS 就是奥地利独立制表人Richard Habring和Maria Kristina Habring的品牌机芯(也就是所谓的奥地利夫妻档,上次团购的“海鹰”据石板讲也是经过他调校的),很明显模板源自ETA,也就是ETA改。
昂文德帝个人认为,钟不错,表就一般,这个式样蛮喜欢的,德国传统天文台钟的表盘(GO也拿来做腕表,小众的GO的Strasser&Rohde,所谓的三针一线)。

胖子 发表于 2013-11-5 13:45:37

看着像7750,7750是个很牛的东西,从我过手的几个来看,虽然号称单向,但上链效率好过2824,走时稳定性似乎也强过
不过却不懂原因,难道是更厚实?直径好像是差不多的

ddgad 发表于 2013-11-5 14:23:00

还是买钟吧

FLEX 发表于 2013-11-5 14:30:12

胖子 发表于 2013-11-5 13:45 static/image/common/back.gif
看着像7750,7750是个很牛的东西,从我过手的几个来看,虽然号称单向,但上链效率好过2824,走时稳定性似乎 ...

这不是计时款。

smartmind 发表于 2013-11-5 15:13:06

本帖最后由 smartmind 于 2013-11-5 15:14 编辑

这不就是7750嘛......,微调都没舍得改...,看说明的意思是改成跳秒了?

源泽 发表于 2013-11-5 15:23:11

7750

林芷晨 发表于 2013-11-5 15:25:29

urin1010 发表于 2013-11-5 13:02 static/image/common/back.gif
Habring2 A09MS 就是奥地利独立制表人Richard Habring和Maria Kristina Habring的品牌机芯(也就是所谓的奥 ...

:handshake

如影随形 发表于 2013-11-5 15:34:05

7750的底子,除了自动摆陀有点修饰外,机芯连一点打磨倒角都么有近乎毛坯,11.9方   感觉:L坑爹!

如影随形 发表于 2013-11-5 15:34:08

7750的底子,除了自动摆陀有点修饰外,机芯连一点打磨倒角都么有近乎毛坯,11.9方   感觉:L坑爹!

urin1010 发表于 2013-11-5 15:34:51

本帖最后由 urin1010 于 2013-11-5 15:37 编辑

林芷晨 发表于 2013-11-5 15:25 static/image/common/back.gif

兄弟对seiko比较深入研究,还望多些这方面的探讨和交流,还望指教。

大羚羊 发表于 2013-11-5 16:00:23

{:3_50:}

shek329 发表于 2013-11-5 16:09:58

smartmind 发表于 2013-11-5 15:13 static/image/common/back.gif
这不就是7750嘛......,微调都没舍得改...,看说明的意思是改成跳秒了?

是改为跳秒了,所以卖得贵。
不过所用的7750的级别不高。

smartmind 发表于 2013-11-5 16:28:48

shek329 发表于 2013-11-5 16:09 static/image/common/back.gif
是改为跳秒了,所以卖得贵。
不过所用的7750的级别不高。

版主能教教咋看等级吗?很像学习一下,是看摆轮的颜色?

林芷晨 发表于 2013-11-5 17:16:15

urin1010 发表于 2013-11-5 15:34 static/image/common/back.gif
兄弟对seiko比较深入研究,还望多些这方面的探讨和交流,还望指教。
{:3_60:}
惭愧惭愧啊~都是在各个地方偷师看来的~

OHSEAL 发表于 2013-11-5 17:34:55

昂文做手表了???:dizzy:

shek329 发表于 2013-11-5 17:48:29

OHSEAL 发表于 2013-11-5 17:34 static/image/common/back.gif
昂文做手表了???

早就有了。

shek329 发表于 2013-11-5 17:54:54

smartmind 发表于 2013-11-5 16:28 static/image/common/back.gif
版主能教教咋看等级吗?很像学习一下,是看摆轮的颜色?

Glucydur摆轮形状可以初步辨识,但不适用国产假表。
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