Jardin-转贴篇（二、）_名表通 - Powered by Discuz! Archiver

jardin 发表于 2009-12-26 00:36:00

Jardin--转贴篇（二、）

转贴。。咱为论坛的建设添砖加瓦，写不了，就体力劳动吧，转载别人现成的。。 
从2楼开始，图片名称的组成是：表型号，采用机芯，生产年份。。
 
[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-28 15:27:00编辑过]

OHSEAL 发表于 2009-12-26 09:42:00

<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder">以下是引用jardin在2009-12-26 1:00:00的发言： 
好像PP朱在某个杂志上提到过，如果R也做陀飞轮等复杂款，估计瑞士好多厂家要崩溃了。。</div>
倒也未必,喜欢的人会固执的喜欢,不喜欢的人还是不喜欢.
不过劳如做复杂必须很震撼,是真的.

jardin 发表于 2009-12-26 01:00:00

<div class="msgheader">QUOTE:</div><div class="msgborder">以下是引用OHSEAL在2009-12-26 0:45:00的发言： 
劳现在如果做8171类的月相表,不知会迷S多少人.</div>
好像PP朱在某个杂志上提到过，如果R也做陀飞轮等复杂款，估计瑞士好多厂家要崩溃了。。

jardin 发表于 2009-12-26 00:36:00

Despite the fact the watch above was made in 1935, it is remarkable how modern it looks. There are only 3 known examples of this watch in private collections.（1935年制，ONLY 3支存世）
 
 
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align="left">This watch was made around the same time as the Reference 6062 Star indices Moonphase watch. There is another version with a black dial which can be seen 7 watches down in this article.</div>
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align="left"> </div>
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: center" align="left">Rolex made all the original Panerai watches pictured below for the Royal Italian Navy from 1936 to 1956. </div>

This watch above is amazing because it seems to be the watch the later Rolex made Panerai watches were based upon. The watch above is smaller at around 30mm than the 47mm Panerai's (as seen below) but the design language is clearly derivative and almost identical
  
 This is the last Panerai Rolex made (pictured above). It was made for the Egyptian Army. This watch has a current value of $120,00 and is the second rarest collectable Panerai. According to the Author, only 30 of this Reference 6154 were ever made. The most collectable and valuable would be the one existing example of the first Panerai Reference 2533 prototype。
  The illustration is from a rare 1935 Rolex brochure and the watch was a honking 47mm. This is the Rolex model Panerai used to make its first Rolex made Panerai (as seen below).
<div> </div>
<div>The illustration above appears courtesy of John Goldberger and according to John, he has never seen an actual example of the Rolex Reference number 2533 because it is so rare. I imagine since it was 47mm it probably did not sell very well, so maybe Rolex simply swapped out the dials, and movements and sold the resulting watches with no name on the dials to Panerai. This may explain why there are no known examples of the watch that appear in the 1935 Rolex catalog.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I was doing some follow up research to best understand the genesis of this first Panerai model made by Rolex and I found a Timezone.com vintage Rolex thread where James Dowling said "My research on Panerai leads me to think Panerai essentially took an existing Rolex model and had Rolex adapt it to their specific requirements. Amongst them was this reference 2533, which is essentially the Mk1 Panerai. But then, of course, Rolex already had the basis of this watch in their catalogue, in the form of the Rolex Oyster Pocket watch."</div>
<div> </div>
<div>So there you have it! Apparently Rolex experimented with putting wire lugs on their 47mm Oyster pocket watch and created the Rolex Reference 2533, and this went on to become the basis of the Panerai diving watch.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>After finally figuring out and understanding this design evolution I decided to create the following graphic to illustrate step by step how the 47mm Rolex Oyster pocket-watch evolved into the original 47mm Panerai.</div>
 
 
 One of the obvious questions is "how did you attach and remove the leather band on these early wire lug Panerai watches if the wire lugs were soldered to the watch?" You guessed it!!! You had to sew the leather band onto the lugs. Panerai makes a very similar 45mm version of this watch today known as the Panerai Radiomir with the vintage wire lugs but they are no longer soldered on, but can removed with two very small screws in the watch body.
 
 This first Rolex Made Panerai, picture above is and Ultra-rare prototype of which there is only 1 known example on earth. Yes, you read that right–there is only one know example and you are looking at it picture above.
  
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left">The Rolex made Panerai Reference 3646, pictured above has unusual art deco dial known as the California dial which has Roman numerals on the top and Arabic numerals on the bottom. This new model was different than its predecessor in that it had an onion shaped winding crown.</div>
 
  
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left" align="left">This is the first Rolex made Panerai with the trademark 3,6,9,12 Panerai Radiomor dial. The Radiomor designation on the dial of the watch was used because it used Radium lume to illuminate the hands and dial in the dark. The dial on this watch is a plexiglass Prototype. Radiomir lume was patented in 1915.</div>
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left" align="left"> </div>
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left" align="left">Later Panerai Luminor watches would use Tritium to illuminate the hands and dial and the current generation Panerai watches use Super Luminova lume to light up the dial and hands.</div>
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left" align="left"> </div>

This next Rolex made Panerai, pictured above has the classic 2,6,9,12 Radiomor Panerai dial with the onion shaped winding crown.
  

With the introduction of the 6152/1 model, Rolex added a new winding crown guard mechanism that allowed the watch to maintain its waterproof seal in deeper water than the conventional crown. Since all the Rolex made Panerai watches were manually wound, the waterproof crown gasket would wear out quickly over time, so Rolex and Panerai came up with this new design enhancement. Rolex made 300 examples of this model. 
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left" align="left">This is the last Panerai model made by Rolex in 1956. It was made for the Egyptian army and they only produced 30 examples. The reason the dial is a light brown or even tan is because the radium based material they used for the markers and hands had a radioactive effect on the black dial and caused it to get much lighter. </div>
<div style="TEXT-ALIGN: left" align="left">Rolex began making Panerai watches for the Italian Royal Navy in 1936 and the watch above is from 1941. It has Roman numerals and Arabic numerals on its dial with no Panerai designation. Its current market value is $80,000, and according to John Goldberger only 600 of the Reference 3646 were ever made。 </div>
[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-26 1:08:49编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-26 00:36:00

[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-27 21:35:03编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-26 00:36:00

[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-27 21:36:45编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-26 00:36:00

[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-27 21:39:37编辑过]

OHSEAL 发表于 2009-12-26 00:45:00

感谢分享!
劳现在如果做8171类的月相表,不知会迷S多少人.

jardin 发表于 2009-12-28 15:18:00

[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-28 15:19:19编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-28 15:20:00

换页上图。。
  
[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-28 15:21:33编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-28 15:23:00

上图。。
 
  
[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-28 15:24:03编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-28 15:20:00

图片太多。。换页上图。。
[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-28 15:24:58编辑过]

jardin 发表于 2009-12-28 15:22:00

上图。。
  
[此贴子已经被作者于2009-12-28 15:22:50编辑过]

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Jardin--转贴篇（二、）