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翁哥，其实您可以把需要翻译的文件直接放到这里，PM固然可以，但是这么好的咨询贴就这样沉下去就有点可惜了。

xhandy 发表于 2013-3-22 18:00
热心人来了，各位可以发起了

看来大家的积极性还是偏低哦。。。

haru 发表于 2013-3-23 17:49
小闹终于来了，咱们版该热闹了 呵呵

谢谢大哥支持，请您把需要翻译的资料全放在回复里，免得帖子下沉，我下次再来的时候会尽量翻译

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The desire to eliminate lubrication stem from the serious problems of early lubricants and Descarte's theory of involute gears. He showed that with involute gear teeth the action of them was to roll and to keep the contact point on the line of centers. No sliding, no lubricant needed.

Thsi led ot some effort to try tp make escapement with no sliding such as the detent id the impulse jewels are shaped. There is still sliding on the pivots however. Early Harrison time keepers tried to get past that with friction rollers with counter poise but these are not suited for watches.

Daniels claimed his co-axial escapement did not need oil but as built it turned out to need it.

Modern lubricants can be placed very precisely and and have much better properties eliminating most of the reasons for trying to avoid them

Early electric watch used magnetic field to impulse watches so no escapement lubrication was needed bit other parts did need it.

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in fact some of these boat watches were also timing trial winners. The world's Navies realized by about 1900 that they needed rugged accurate watches for gun boats, as in gun boat diplomacy, and torpedo boats. They set up time trials for these and tested them in one posiiton and various temperatures in Geneva and especially Neuchatel. By about 1915 some of the these makers figured out the the English Teddington trial had no size limits so they started adjusting these in positions and took the top places at the English trials. The Neuchatel makers clobbered the fancy Geneva entries. Ditisheim Movado and Longines ambushed them. The ultra fine adjustment may be transitory but these are rugged relaible watches.

Also many of the finest English movement were cased in heavy silver water proof cases for explorers. These are lovely watches and they are intended to go in distant explorations with late 1800's technology. They are reliable and robust. These custoimers staked their lives on these and if they got lost, there was no GPS or radio and help was not on the way. They needed relaible longitude and these wawtches were what got them back.
Kew moved to Teddington so they are the same. Teddington was open to all so cometition was tougher so I'd prefer a winner from there. That is where the Geneva and Neuchael makers went after each other since most Geneva and Neuchatel competition were limited to locals.

All gave varous classes of certificates but the top levels foremed the competition. Thus a Kew A certicate mean that a watch met their performance standards. These systems all awarded popints for exceeding the minimum standards. Kew/Teddington published the names and data on the top 50 performaers but gave no **s. The Swiss awarded **s for individual watches groups of watches and best regulator. The Swiss certificates have a lot more informationthen Kew Teddington including who did the final adjustment. The rules and scoring were different but the top watch at Teddington had a decent claim as the best in the world.

Swiss **s were based "on a curve" If the top few watches got similar scores they all got first ** and so it went. This was probably reasonable since the differences were within the variation of the watches. If two watches were close another set ot tests might reverse the ranking.

There are enough things to like and dislike about all of them that I don't have a favorite. They did not use modern statstics so the values do not relate to modern theories of error. When they did these tests they had computers but they were humans with pen and paper and sometimes mechanical adding machines.

My favorite test is the the Allan variance which you can learn about at this link. The old Hewlett Packard (they made atomic clocks) application note is there and it's a great read.

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It depends on what you have and how much you are prepared to maintain a watch. Since i collect fo enjoyment I do not intentionally buy watches I can't wear. Sometimes after I get the watch I find that it is too risky to wear. An example is fine English free spring keyless fusee. I broke in balance staff in a horrible example of mishandling and my repair guy said that staff was just too difficult to cut. It helical balance spring was made the staff so long the balance was too delicate and its regulating screws are worn so they are not stable so its too delicate to wear. The repair also took three years.

I heard of guy who had a very fine skeleton Audemars Piguet pocket watch. These things look like gold spider web. It was in his pocket when he leaned against a railing. He bent it and in the1980's it cost him $10,000 to fix.

I knew a fellow grad student who came from money and his very fine wrist watch was constantly breaking. The jeweler finally explained to him that the watch was made for a man who does not open his own car door.

What you wear depends on how you wear it , how you can store it when not in wear and your tolerance for loss. Railroad watches are made to be worn in hard use but even those do not belong in your pocket when you decide to compete in a chain saw sculpture contest. I wear dress watches when I am sure I am not going to engage in a football match or at least have a place to keep it when I do.

When I travel I bring along a fairly rugged fairly replaceable pocket watch and a water proof wrist watch that I never take off during the trip. I'll wear something better to a fancy occasion when I am sure I can keep it in safe place when I am not wearing it.

If you are a celebrity rep of a watch company you can and should wear a very expensive watch because the sponsor wants it shown and they will cover the repair if needed,

Different watches for different carry situations and spares for when you find you can't carry one. Why else would you need a collection?

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DVC-PRO 发表于 2013-3-24 19:47
thin-model yellow gold filled (YGF) fully engine turned hunting case (HC) with blank monogram butto ...

能否把图片也发过来？谢谢

DVC-PRO 发表于 2013-3-24 19:47
thin-model yellow gold filled (YGF) fully engine turned hunting case (HC) with blank monogram butto ...

薄装表款，重型包黄金表壳带有玫瑰车花及开盖用按钮，法式表环带有压印痕迹（近新），一块品相非常好的侯活（Howard）！

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